Bold new era ahead for the Italo dining + bar, rooted in tradition, designed in the tropics
Bali is no stranger to change. And neither is its dining scene; a steady stream of bars and restaurants continue to arrive across the Indonesian island. But among this influx sit a handful of well-respected, long-term residents, Da Maria among them.
After 9 years and counting, Da Maria can claim the title of a Seminyak institution – no easy feat in a destination where venue turnover is rife. Since 2016, the multi-faceted space has successfully merged Italo-Australian dining, contemporary interiors, and nightlife. But it’s an enduring focus on quality food and drink which has cemented the venue’s longevity, and helped to inspire its next move.
Da Maria welcomes a new chapter, an evolution that is promised won’t stray too far from its origins, but will reinvigorate the old favourite. This bold new phase will be led by Da Maria’s existing team of hospitality heavyweights, who are a part of the trailblazing Mexicola Group, and most recently introduced Indonesia’s first natural wine bar Mosto.
Joining Executive Chef Lorenzo De Petris and Group Beverage Director Denny Bakiev in the shaping of Da Maria’s new direction is newcomer Luca Marcolin as Bar Manager, formerly of award-winning cocktail bar Zuma Dubai (World’s 50 Best Bars
“We recognise the importance of keeping our experience fresh, exciting, and relevant for our guests,” says De Petris, whose career includes stints at the esteemed Ristorante Duomo and Le Gavroche, both Michelin-starred venues.
“The Da Maria on the way marks the natural evolution of our concept and offering. Without drifting from our Italian roots, we feel ready as a team to step into and embrace a new chapter. This evolution reflects not only our own growth but also the ever-changing landscape of Bali.”
Most noticeable in a series of changes to come is the reinvention of the menu, where more international influences have made an appearance. “The menu is bolder,” he says, “We’re now leaning into more Mediterranean, not just Italian.”
Modern, straightforward flavours dominate. Start with cold cuts or antipasti, like the grassfed beef tartare, anchoïade, cavolo nero, yolk, pecorino – an updated take on Da Maria’s iconic carpaccio. Or the cold smoked sardines, with lemon, olive oil and yuzu juice. Pizza remains, but has been curated to six offerings, a green tomato with mozzarella, local ‘nduja, and manchego option among them.
While substantial mains have been expanded; there’s a quartet of simple but flavoursome pastas, like the tonnarelli, tossed in sweet lemon butter, prawns, and topped with Japanese bottarga. And secondi, where inspiration has been pulled from the larger Mediterranean region, lamb skewers are served with rosemary and lemon, alongside a variety of proteins cooked over lava stones such as spring chicken with rouille sauce and market fish served with burnt citrus.
While there will remain a handful of imported key ingredients (Prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Australian beef), locally sourced ingredients will form more of a focus. “It’s something that we’re really proud of and want to showcase,” De Petris says. “We’re very much aware of our surroundings. We know we are based in the tropics so we want to reflect that through our food.” Picture produce sourced from the hills of Kintamani, charcuterie grown and cured on the Island, and the use of local flour to form Da Maria’s famed Neapolitan-style pizzas.
And then there’s the drinks, crafted by Bakiev and Marcolin, who will embrace a similarly international vision. Premium produce and modern methods now take centre stage, says Bakiev. ‘’We’ll stick to Italo roots and classics as a base, but we’ll take it that step further using modern cocktail making and preparation techniques.” New addition Marcolin agrees; “The new cocktail menu is, above all, fun and quite expansive, while staying true to Da Maria’s core philosophy, where flavour is king.”
Da Maria won’t be farewelling its much loved spritz section any time soon, but turning its attention to the martini. Served tableside, this experience is an interactive one where guests are invited to choose between a classic dry-style, or something more tropical. Innovative ‘aromas’, housemade infusions will personalise cocktails; there are three key flavours; Limoni (lemon peel and citrus blossom), Erbe (rosemary, thyme, sage and a touch of EVO), or Mare (Re-distilled oyster shells and sea grapes). “This focus on the martini comes from our intention to bring a more international cocktail experience to Da Maria,” says Marcolin. “The list features beautifully balanced, fruit-driven martinis, as well as classic options, accompanied by distilled aromas inspired by the Amalfi Coast.” Drink service itself is just as immersive, with cocktails created tableside, via a martini trolley service.
Group sommelier Federico Sirito has honed a new wine program to match. Focused mainly on conventional Italian producers, the menu is approachable, with something for everyone. There will also be a small selection of minimal intervention wines, and vintage drops to cater to more specialty cravings.
It’s a new era for Da Maria. But not everything is set to change – the venue’s much-loved late-night entertainment will remain as it stands. As will the bulk of the venue’s iconic interiors. Dreamed up by Roman architects Lazzarini Pickering, the original geometric design was heavily inspired by 1960s Amalfi. Though reinvigoration is on the horizon, with Carl Pickering to be welcomed back to the Island. With his visit will come gentle alterations to Da
Maria that, like the new food and beverage focus, will nod to its traditional roots, while paying tribute to its vibrant island home. “Da Maria feels like a timeless Mediterranean garden, Italian at its core, but abstractly Balinese. We’re keeping its DNA while projecting it into a new vision.” says Pickering.
Adding to this continued evolution, Da Maria will soon reopen for weekend lunches, extending the restaurant’s experience from day through to night.
Tel: 62 811-3859-666
IG: @damariabali
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